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Welcome to
Secret Breakfast

An exclusive newsletter, the best place to start your day powered by an intoxicating brew of panic, resentment and Red Bull
Hi there!

Copenaghen no-meat restaurant Geranium won the 50 Best awards just a few hours ago.

All prizes have their own rules and biases, but this edition of 50 Best looks interesting in many ways, especially after the pandemic. 

¿Tú hablas español? Four of the first five places are somehow Spanish-speaking restaurants: Central (Lima), Disfrutar (Barcelona, ok it's Catalan here, I know), Diverxo (Madrid), Pujol (Mexico City). And many more are in the lower positions. 

South America is on fire. 10 out of 50 are in Central or South America, from Mexico to Argentina. Lima has three spots - Central, Maido, and Mayta - and has definitely become the place to go. 

Forget New York City. The City that never sleeps has two restaurants this year, Atomix and Le Bernardin. Eleven Madison Park going full vegetable has disappeared from the radar. Another clue for my rough thesis: New York City is not cool anymore. 

Italy, Italy, Italy. Six spots, two among the top ten. Italian cuisine is strong: the place to be are  “Lido 84” (8th) and “Le Calandre” (10th), but do not forget Uliassi (from 52nd to 12nd), Reale, the incredible St. Hubertus by Norbert Niederkofler and Piazza Duomo. Interesting fact: neither of these six is located in a major Italian city. 

What is not there. As Eater noted "In the list’s 20-year history, only European or North American restaurants have occupied the “best” restaurant slot. No South American or Asian restaurants have ever moved to the top spot, and there are no restaurants on the top 50 list from the Middle East. There are no restaurants on the list from India, a country of 1.38 billion people. The only restaurant from Africa, a continent of 1.28 billion people, is a South African spot that experiments with Japanese techniques".

Cheers!

Piero

Picture: a summer menu plate by Restaurant Geranium
THE BEST QUOTE
→  Iliana Regan, Burn The Place
THE MISSING INGREDIENT
THE BEAR, THE BEEF AND THE TOXIC MASCULINE KITCHEN
The Bear is the tv show of the year. No doubts about that, at least for us food fans. 

Synopsis: A young chef from the world of fine dining comes home to Chicago to run his family's Italian beef sandwich shop.

I wanted to binge it before writing about it, but what can I add now? 

Good press is already out: Questions. Everything. Restaurants. And Men. Are. About. Ehi!

You'll read somewhere that The Bear is "Good Will Hunting meets Anthony Bourdain", but I'm pretty sure the right equation is this: Gentefied + (Boiling PointThe Hundred-Foot Journey), with a sprinkle of BLM and noma.

Just watch it, keep clean your side of the road, find a Chef Syd for your life, don't be ruined by your idiot cousin, and keep the recipe of the perfect donut. 

Picture: The Bear
Welcome to the veg game
★★★

The cover illustration is catchy. The book, once opened, looks like a cookbook, but also like a cool magazine. The author has been described "a force of nature". Veg cooking, well, who dares to speak against it? This one - published in 2020 - is an everyday companion for mastering that damned vegetables. When in trouble, remember that plants are sugars, so you can bake a "BBB", a Blender Beetroot Brownie (★recipe, video).

In Praise of Veg by Alice Zaslavsky
→ Shortplot:
🍠 🍊 🥗 🍅
RANDOM ACTS OF HUNGER
This is the space where I share some food (un)related stuff of my week 

🥄The Condiment Packet Gallery 🍬You’re probably consuming too much sugar and the other 43 lessons Khe Hy has learned in his first 43 years 🍭BTW, here are 8 Foods That Curb Sugar Cravings 🌶El Fuego Viviente Chili is a fermented Open Source Open Sauce (★recipe) 🥗The inevitable: 20 Easy Salads for Every Summer Table (★recipes). PS: try the Stone Fruit Caprese 🛌 How TikTokers convinced consumers to lay on a bed of nails (and why you shouldn't believe anything they post) 🎞WTF, Flux Gourmet, the (disgusting?) movie I was telling you about last week is one of the best of this 2022 🐊First we had alternative meats, now we have bio-engineered better meats containing alligators and alpacas 😡Being 'hangry' - angry because you're hungry - is real, now there's science to prove it 🌮Gluten Free Zucchini Tortillas (★recipe) 🌽Ixta's Brown butter curried Cornbread (★recipe)
FOOD FOR LATER
Alicia Kennedy / Gawker
"What defined recipe developers like Carla Lalli Music, Claire Saffitz, and Andy Baraghani was their combination of the restaurant-honed technique of the chef stars and the home-cooking approachability of a Barefoot Contessa, all wrapped up in a social-media-ready package primed for media opportunities and sponsorship". Just perfect. 
Charisma Madarang  / Life & Thyme
"Every Sunday, Jennifer Moya and her family break bread with migrant families at the Texas-Mexico border, helping address food insecurity in the Lower Rio Grande Valley". It's incredible how many families in need exist now, after the pandemic. 
Jay Reyner  / The Guardian
In summer many restaurants struggle and eating out can be a not-so-pleasant experience. Jay's suggestions: plan ahead, book your table, be patient and forgive "the understaffed kitchen powered by an intoxicating brew of panic, resentment and Red Bull".
SEASON 2 - ISSUE 91
Secret Breakfast is a newsletter
by 
Piero Macchioni
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