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The Crown Heights restaurant scene these days seems to be a constant tug-of-war between the slew of trendy New American hotspots and the many longstanding Caribbean hole-in-the-walls (spoiler alert: there's a lot more of the former opening, and a lot of the latter closing). But in all the ballyhoo about the rapidly changing face of Franklin Avenue and the surrounding area, a unique new eatery that effectively bridges the gap between these two faces of Crown Heights has gone largely unnoticed.
Ital Kitchen opened on Union Street last fall, just off of busy Franklin Ave., but I've yet to see a single review of this place published anywhere, despite unanimously positive shout-outs from customers on Yelp. On that site, chef/owner Michael Gordon summarizes his culinary philosophy as "obfuscation should be a crime in the kitchen" and that thinking is on display at this tiny, 16-seat eatery. It's a sit-down restaurant with a beautiful ambiance, unlike many of the area's no-frills Caribbean spots, and in contrast to many of the new restaurants here, there are few gimmicks and culinary tricks: just heart-warming food in a heart-warming setting.
What's on the menu at Ital Kitchen, from "Brooklyn chow mein" to coconut pancakes»
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